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Water:
Hundreds of thousands of tons of it,

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lying frozen on the world's mountains.

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It covers not only the poles,
but caps great peaks on the equator.

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Water molecules, distilled from the sea
by the sun's heat, condense in the sky.

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As they fall through the air,
they pack together into shapes

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that echo their six-fold symmetry
and form infinitely varied crystals of ice.

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They settle on the high mountains
and compact into snow and ice

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that is, chemically, almost pure water,

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much purer than the sea from which it came.

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On Mount Rainier in the United States,

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permanent snow begins at 7,000 feet.

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You might think that this was one of
the most inhospitable places on earth for life.

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After all, no vegetation grows
on these snowfields,

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so there can be no animals that feed on it,
like marmots or mice or rabbits,

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and if there are no herbivores, there can't be
any predators like hawks or weasels.

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But in fact,
there is a surprising amount of life here.

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There is some life
actually within this snowfield itself,

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because this snow is not white, but red.

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The colour comes from microscopic plants:
Algae.

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The redness is produced
by light reflected from their cell walls,

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and is almost invisible when,
under the microscope, light shines through them.

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Internally, they're green with chlorophyll.

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With its aid, they convert
carbon dioxide and water into sugars.

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These, and the minerals
dissolved in the melt water,

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are all the algae need to grow and reproduce.

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The winter snow will bury them feet deep,

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but in spring, when the surface melts,
they divide, develop tiny beating hairs

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and swim up towards the sunshine.

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As they age and the minerals are used up,
they change colour,

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forming huge smears of red
in snowfields all over the world.

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Eventually, the snow algae produce spores
as fine as dust

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and in that form they are blown
from one snowfield to another.

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But other, bigger animals,
also brought up by the wind,

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blow across the snows of Mount Rainier.

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Ladybirds. Thousands of them.

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Nobody knows why they come up
in such numbers and assemble like this.

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But in late summer they fly up from the valleys
up to these high peaks

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and here assemble in the rocks.

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When the winter snows come, the ladybirds
remain underneath the snow in the rocks,

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and then in the spring, as now,
the snow melts and the sun warms the ladybirds,

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and they become active
and fly off back to the valley to feed on aphids.

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The ladybirds are only temporary residents
of the Mount Rainier snowfields.

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Other insects manage, almost unbelievably,

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to live all their lives
in this seemingly inhospitable snow.

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The best time to find them is at night.

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A whole community lives here,

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feeding on pollen grains and the bodies
of dead insects blown up on the wind.

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Some, like this primitive relation
of the cockroach, a grylloblattid,

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have a body chemistry
so well adjusted to low temperatures

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that if you pick them up,
your hand's warmth will kill them.

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Permanent snow lies directly on bare rock,

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but lower down, where it comes and goes,
there can be a little vegetation to be grazed.

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Mountain sheep. These on Mount McKinley
are the kind known as Dall Sheep.

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Little ground squirrels live up here too.

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Unlike the sheep,
which retreat to lower altitudes in winter,

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the squirrels are permanent residents,

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insulated in their burrows from the frosts
by the cover of snow.

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There are sheep like these in mountains
all through North America, Asia and Europe.

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All carry big horns,
and the senior males, in autumn,

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indulge in the most alarming courtship battles.

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It's hard for plants to grow on steep, high slopes

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The warming by day and freezing by night
makes the gravelly soil slip downwards,

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so it's difficult for plants to keep a hold.

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With few plants, grazing animals are rare,

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though there may be more
than there appear to be at first sight.

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These, in the Himalayas, are blue sheep,

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so nimble and sure-footed they can reach
almost any vegetation on the steep slopes.

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But if these are rare, rarer still is the animal
that preys on them, the snow leopard.

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In summer it stays
at between 12,000 and 15,000 feet,

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hunting small rodents and birds
as well as mountain sheep.

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Snow leopards have been seen
as high as 18,000 feet in summer.

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But with winter's heavy snowfalls,
it retreats to the valleys.

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Game is now so scarce that there's barely
enough to support more than one leopard,

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so this animal hunts alone.

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Its thick, dense fur is now paler.

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It has a thick, woolly undercoat
and cushions of hair under its paws

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which prevent it from sinking in the snow.

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The mountains of Africa, although so near
the equator, are permanently snow-capped.

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Kilimanjaro, 19,000 feet high, is a volcano.

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Mount Kenya, also volcanic,
is 2,000 feet lower but still has its own glaciers

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Each has its own animals and plants

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specially adapted to life at low temperatures.

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Here, at about 13,000 feet,
grow some most beautiful and dramatic plants:

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Giant groundsels and giant lobelias.

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At these altitudes, plants like these

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have to face two totally conflicting problems
every 24 hours.

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Every night the temperature falls so low
that they're in danger of freezing solid.

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And every day the sun beats down so strongly
in this very thin air

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that it threatens to rob them of their moisture
by evaporation.

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But look how this lobelia
deals with those problems.

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This little pond of water in the leaf rosette
freezes over every night,

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and this shield of ice
prevents the water beneath from freezing,

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so that it acts as a liquid jacket, preventing
the frost from reaching the heart of the plant.

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But as the day wears on and it gets warmer,
this water is in danger of evaporating

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and the plant of losing
its night-time insulation.

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But it isn't just rainwater
that's accumulated in this rosette.

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It's been secreted by the plant itself
and it's slightly slimy.

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It contains pectin, a colloidal substance
which greatly reduces evaporation.

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But there's another kind of lobelia

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which deals with these two problems
in a quite different way.

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This one grows very tall
and has extremely long leaves,

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each fringed with tiny hairs
which act like an animal's fur,

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trapping air between them,
insulating the stem from chills.

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They also prevent the wind
from robbing the plants of moisture.

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Each group of lobelias
is owned by a pair of sunbirds

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which collect the insects the plants attract.

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They keep themselves warm
with fluffed-up feathers.

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And among the rocks are hyrax.

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The reason these little creatures are so tame
and I can get so close to them

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is just because they're living so high up.

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Up here, there are few creatures to prey on them.

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An occasional leopard may come up
and hunt them, but apart from that, nothing.

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And so they can come out
during the few brief hours of sunshine

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and bask on the rocks without any fear,

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just as they're doing now.

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Hyrax also live down on the hot plains below,

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but these, in response to the cold,
have developed particularly long fur.

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Despite their shape,
they often climb trees to crop leaves.

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But at these altitudes,
there's only grass and lobelias,

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and they share it with the little furry-eared rat.

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Mount Kenya, like its neighbours
Kilimanjaro and Ruwenzori,

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is an isolated patch of snow and ice
surrounded by the baking hot African plains.

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But the great mountains of South America,

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like Cotopaxi, 19,000 feet high, are very different.

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These volcanoes, some active, some dormant,
are not isolated peaks

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but part of a continuous range
that runs the length of the continent

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and is surrounded
by the high, cold plains of the altiplano,

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so their flanks support
a large and varied population of animals,

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all adapted to life
at high altitudes and low temperatures.

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Here lives a wild South American camel,
the vicuna.

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Its coat is fine, silky
and protected so well from the cold,

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that it has, paradoxically,
led to its near-extinction.

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Men have recognised that vicuna wool
has an unexcelled softness and warmth

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and hunted the animal for it
until it's close to extinction.

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The people of the Andes have domesticated
another wild camel, the guanaco,

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to produce heavy-fleeced versions
which produce excellent wool

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and serve as beasts of burden.

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Here, in Ecuador and Peru, near the equator,
wild camels live at around 14,000 feet.

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But as you travel south down the Andes,
the snowline gets lower.

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Half-way down,
2,000 miles south of Cotopaxi,

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the line of permanent snow
has dropped from 16,000 feet to 13,000 feet.

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A thousand miles farther south still,
the mountains are not so high

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but are almost completely covered with snow,
to within a few hundred feet of the sea.

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So, on the southernmost tip of South America,
in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego,

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the guanaco doesn't live at great altitudes,
but almost at sea level.

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Yet it needs its warm coat just as much,
for here, even in summer, it's very cold,

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and during the winter
the whole land is snowbound.

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The reason it gets colder nearer the pole
is not complicated.

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The sun's rays strike the earth
at the equator at right angles.

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But as you travel round the earth,

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the rays become more and more glancing.

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So a given amount of heat falling on the equator

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is distributed over a much greater area
in the polar regions

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and has to travel through more of the earth's
atmosphere, which weakens it still further.

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So down in Patagonia, the sun's rays are
very much less intense and carry much less heat,

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and the glaciers flow right down to the sea.

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Farther south still,
across the near-frozen seas off Cape Horn,

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you reach chains of small volcanic islands

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that run down towards
the Antarctic continent itself:

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Remote, little-known archipelagos

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such as the South Sandwich
and, here, the South Orkneys.

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There are only two flowering plants that can
manage to survive in this bleak, icy country.

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One is a kind of thrift
and the other is a small, stunted grass.

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And apparently,
no land-living animals of any kind.

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But when the snows melt in summer,
they reveal that the rocks and the boulders

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are covered with over 100
different kinds of mosses and lichens,

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some of them rounded green cushions,
others like miniature trees.

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The capacity of these simple plants
to endure cold is phenomenal.

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Some species can even survive
being frozen solid for weeks on end.

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Within this miniature tangled jungle
lives a whole menagerie of tiny animals.

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Primitive creatures
little bigger than pinheads

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manage to survive by slowly chewing away
at the lichens and mosses during summer.

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In winter they almost grind to a halt,

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yet they survive unfrozen
because their blood contains a kind of antifreeze

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and remains liquid
even when the temperature falls well below zero.

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The majority are vegetarians,
but there are also carnivorous mites among them

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which clamber around the grazing herds,

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picking off individuals as they fancy.

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In this extreme cold,
the processes of life are greatly slowed down,

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not only those of growth,
but those that lead to old age and death.

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So such tiny creatures,
which elsewhere might live for merely months,

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survive for two or three years
within the green mossy carpets.

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The seas around these Antarctic islands
are strewn with ice.

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The pack ice that litters the surface
is frozen sea water,

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and in winter forms a solid cover to the sea.

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The icebergs are different.

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They're made of fresh water and have
broken away from glaciers flowing into the sea.

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This is the source of those bergs:
The edge of a glacier.

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Beyond it, the continent of Antarctica.

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It's huge, bigger than the whole of Europe,

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and, for the most part,
it seems totally devoid of life.

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But not all of Antarctica is snow-covered.

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In parts of the interior there are valleys
where almost no snow ever falls.

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This is as desolate a part of the earth as exists.

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The cold is extreme,
it's drier even than the centre of the Sahara,

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it's dark for half the year

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and it's scoured by a never-ending howling wind.

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And the wind is responsible
for these carvings in the solid granite.

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Crystals of salt
form beneath tiny flakes on the surface,

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and grow slowly, but so powerfully
that particles are broken loose.

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The wind then sweeps them up and hurls them
at the rock face, eroding it still further.

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Desolate though this waste of shattered rocks
may seem, there is life even here.

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Algae. Beneath the stone,
the wind doesn't dry it out,

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and it's protected from the cold.

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It gets the light it needs to grow
through the translucent rock.

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There are also green patches
actually within the rock.

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Algae have penetrated the microscopic spaces
between the rock's constituent particles

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and there managed to grow.

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Glaciers flow down these dry valleys,

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fed by the ice cap
covering the continent's centre.

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They're among the world's fastest moving,
advancing as much as 300 feet in a year.

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As they surge downwards,
their surface is torn into thousands of crevasses.

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00:22:35,063 --> 00:22:38,192
During the summer,
even though the winds are bitterly cold,

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the sun is sufficiently strong
to melt a little of the glacier's surface.

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Where it accumulates in pools,
blue-green algae grows vigorously,

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its dark colour enabling it to absorb
a high proportion of the sun's feeble heat.

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00:22:58,629 --> 00:23:03,550
These pools and streams are the only places
in all of Antarctica's interior

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where life flourishes in any abundance.

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The earth, at the beginning of the history of life

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before any higher plants
or any animals had appeared,

221
00:23:14,728 --> 00:23:17,564
must have looked something like this.

222
00:23:23,654 --> 00:23:28,367
Yet here, mysteriously,
lie the corpses of large animals.

223
00:23:29,409 --> 00:23:32,955
A crab-eater seal.
It looks comparatively fresh,

224
00:23:33,163 --> 00:23:38,669
but examination of its tissues
show that it is about 300 years old.

225
00:23:39,211 --> 00:23:41,880
This extreme climate has freeze-dried it.

226
00:23:42,256 --> 00:23:45,175
It must have lost its way,
perhaps because of sickness,

227
00:23:45,342 --> 00:23:49,805
and misguidedly crawled up here
from the coast, 25 miles away.

228
00:23:51,890 --> 00:23:57,813
Although the land of the Antarctic is almost sterile,
its waters are extremely fertile,

229
00:23:58,188 --> 00:24:04,236
so its margins, particularly the beaches
of its off-shore islands, are rich in life.

230
00:24:13,662 --> 00:24:17,583
These fur seals in South Georgia
flourish in great numbers

231
00:24:17,791 --> 00:24:19,543
because the surface waters of the seas

232
00:24:19,751 --> 00:24:24,840
are thick with shoals of floating shrimp:
Krill, which is their main food.

233
00:24:25,507 --> 00:24:29,803
Every year they come ashore to the beaches
to pup and mate.

234
00:24:32,806 --> 00:24:38,604
They're not true seals but eared seals,
for they have small external ears.

235
00:24:38,770 --> 00:24:43,775
Their hind flippers can be brought forward,
enabling them to move quite fast on land,

236
00:24:43,942 --> 00:24:46,236
something that true seals can't do.

237
00:24:46,612 --> 00:24:52,075
These fur seals retained and thickened
the fur of their land-living ancestors,

238
00:24:52,242 --> 00:25:00,125
so that now some of these big males
have manes which give them the name sea lion.

239
00:25:00,542 --> 00:25:03,962
This fur lies in two layers.

240
00:25:04,129 --> 00:25:09,092
There's an outer guard hair
and then a thick layer close to the skin,

241
00:25:09,259 --> 00:25:16,600
and that traps air in it and keeps
the animals warm when they go swimming.

242
00:25:16,808 --> 00:25:19,353
But the trouble with fur as an insulator

243
00:25:19,520 --> 00:25:26,068
is that if you dive too deep,
water pressure squeezes out the air.

244
00:25:26,360 --> 00:25:31,406
So fur seals, for the most part,
fish in the surface waters.

245
00:25:33,367 --> 00:25:38,622
True seals, like these elephant seal pups,
have a different kind of insulation.

246
00:25:38,872 --> 00:25:40,290
Their fur is sparse,

247
00:25:40,499 --> 00:25:45,295
but beneath the skin
is a thick layer of oily fat, blubber,

248
00:25:45,462 --> 00:25:47,798
which surrounds their entire body.

249
00:25:48,131 --> 00:25:51,260
Elephant seals dive to great depths to hunt squid,

250
00:25:51,468 --> 00:25:55,597
navigating in the dark with sonar and huge eyes,

251
00:25:55,889 --> 00:26:01,019
but they don't get chilled, for pressure
has no effect on blubber's insulating qualities.

252
00:26:01,645 --> 00:26:07,109
With every year, the blubber
which kept them so warm in the freezing seas

253
00:26:07,276 --> 00:26:08,610
loses its power.

254
00:26:09,069 --> 00:26:12,865
Because every year
the sea elephants have to moult,

255
00:26:13,031 --> 00:26:19,705
and in order to grow new skin they have to
bring a blood supply close to the surface.

256
00:26:19,997 --> 00:26:22,207
Blood vessels open up through the blubber

257
00:26:22,374 --> 00:26:27,045
and the skin is flushed with blood
just below the surface.

258
00:26:27,296 --> 00:26:31,175
If they stayed in the sea like that,
they'd chill very quickly.

259
00:26:31,466 --> 00:26:33,886
But they don't. Instead...

260
00:26:36,847 --> 00:26:42,144
...they haul themselves up onto the beaches
or into mud wallows like this one.

261
00:26:42,519 --> 00:26:44,730
And there, the big old bulls like that one

262
00:26:44,897 --> 00:26:49,693
must suppress the feelings of antagonism
they felt only a few months ago

263
00:26:49,902 --> 00:26:54,698
and lie close together with their fellows
in the interests of keeping warm.

264
00:27:01,788 --> 00:27:04,333
These are the biggest of all seals.

265
00:27:04,541 --> 00:27:10,172
The huge adult males develop a bladder
on top of their noses, like a kind of trunk.

266
00:27:15,302 --> 00:27:20,057
But they also justify their name
of sea elephant by their immense size.

267
00:27:20,432 --> 00:27:24,770
The bulls may grow to 20 feet long
and weigh three tons.

268
00:27:34,321 --> 00:27:39,076
If you wanted to pick a creature
to symbolise the frozen Antarctic wastes,

269
00:27:39,243 --> 00:27:42,496
you might well choose a creature like this.

270
00:27:42,663 --> 00:27:46,416
These are macaroni penguins
on the island of South Georgia,

271
00:27:46,583 --> 00:27:50,379
halfway between the tip of South America
and the Antarctic.

272
00:27:50,838 --> 00:27:57,177
But it seems the original penguins
evolved in relatively warm climates.

273
00:27:57,344 --> 00:28:01,515
Even today, there are species of penguins
that live on the equator,

274
00:28:01,765 --> 00:28:03,392
in the Galapagos islands.

275
00:28:03,767 --> 00:28:08,188
So this dense coat of feathers
with a layer of fat beneath it

276
00:28:08,355 --> 00:28:13,026
was probably developed
to keep them warm in the seas anywhere,

277
00:28:13,193 --> 00:28:17,114
but it serves them just as well
in the freezing Antarctic winds,

278
00:28:17,281 --> 00:28:20,826
standing on land or on a surging iceberg.

279
00:28:40,429 --> 00:28:43,182
And they are superb swimmers.

280
00:28:45,309 --> 00:28:47,853
Swift and agile through water,

281
00:28:48,020 --> 00:28:51,648
they come in to land
through breakers that would smash any boat

282
00:28:51,815 --> 00:28:54,776
with the resilience of rubber balls.

283
00:29:04,912 --> 00:29:08,540
These chinstrap penguins
are only a couple of feet high.

284
00:29:08,707 --> 00:29:11,418
King penguins are half as tall again.

285
00:29:11,668 --> 00:29:15,297
Large size can be an advantage in cold climates.

286
00:29:15,547 --> 00:29:20,594
The bigger a body, the smaller
the surface area of its skin relative to its volume.

287
00:29:20,844 --> 00:29:24,932
So big penguins retain heat
better than small ones.

288
00:29:25,349 --> 00:29:28,852
But their great size
causes problems in breeding.

289
00:29:29,061 --> 00:29:32,356
They lay just one egg, which they keep warm

290
00:29:32,523 --> 00:29:37,152
by the rather inconvenient method
of holding it on top of their feet,

291
00:29:37,444 --> 00:29:42,658
covered by a fold of feathered skin,
for eight long weeks.

292
00:29:42,991 --> 00:29:48,497
When it does hatch,
the chick takes so long to mature

293
00:29:48,705 --> 00:29:51,792
that they have to feed it for a further ten months

294
00:29:52,918 --> 00:29:56,171
These king penguins
aren't the biggest of all penguins.

295
00:29:56,380 --> 00:30:00,509
They have a cousin, living farther south,
which grows even bigger.

296
00:30:00,717 --> 00:30:04,179
It, too, has fearsome problems in raising its chic

297
00:30:04,346 --> 00:30:07,891
and it solves them
in the most dramatic way imaginable.

298
00:30:08,517 --> 00:30:13,146
They lay their eggs not in spring,
but at the end of summer.

299
00:30:13,522 --> 00:30:17,025
Their breeding grounds
are on the permanent sea ice near the coast.

300
00:30:17,276 --> 00:30:24,491
The females return to the sea to feed,
leaving the males with the eggs.

301
00:30:24,741 --> 00:30:27,911
They shuffle back and forth,
each with an egg on his feet,

302
00:30:28,078 --> 00:30:30,414
held carefully above the ice.

303
00:30:38,088 --> 00:30:41,508
The gales intensify as the winter advances

304
00:30:41,717 --> 00:30:43,594
and the sun sinks lower.

305
00:30:45,429 --> 00:30:48,765
In the skies above, the aurora plays.

306
00:30:49,516 --> 00:30:53,395
The male emperors
stoically sit out the months of winter darkness.

307
00:30:53,812 --> 00:30:58,400
The sea ice can offer them no nest.
Not even a scree for a few pebbles.

308
00:30:58,567 --> 00:31:03,614
They have nothing to eat, and nothing to do
except protect the precious egg

309
00:31:03,780 --> 00:31:07,868
and prevent it from freezing
while the chick slowly forms inside it.

310
00:31:08,327 --> 00:31:13,540
As the gales intensify, the males huddle together
to give one another shelter.

311
00:31:14,583 --> 00:31:19,671
Then, 65 days after it was laid,
the chick begins to hatch.

312
00:31:38,440 --> 00:31:40,734
The newly-emerged chicks are hungry.

313
00:31:40,984 --> 00:31:46,615
All the male can provide is a little secretion
from his throat and long-empty stomach.

314
00:31:47,115 --> 00:31:48,450
He's close to starving himself,

315
00:31:48,617 --> 00:31:52,496
having been sustained
only by the layer of fat beneath his skin.

316
00:31:52,746 --> 00:31:55,249
He's lost a third of his weight.

317
00:31:58,168 --> 00:32:01,588
But soon after,
the female reappears with a full stomach

318
00:32:01,797 --> 00:32:06,468
and takes the chick onto her feet
for its first proper feed.

319
00:32:07,511 --> 00:32:12,391
Now the parents will take turns
to trek to the sea and back,

320
00:32:12,599 --> 00:32:14,518
bringing food for their youngsters.

321
00:32:15,185 --> 00:32:20,107
But now, at the end of winter,
the ice has extended far out to sea,

322
00:32:20,274 --> 00:32:24,862
and the penguins may have to walk 50 miles
to reach open water.

323
00:32:25,988 --> 00:32:29,241
The adults have a powerful urge
to cherish a chick.

324
00:32:29,658 --> 00:32:32,911
Those that have lost one
will try and adopt any that wanders by

325
00:32:33,120 --> 00:32:35,914
or incubate pieces of ice.

326
00:32:48,594 --> 00:32:50,888
Repeatedly, the parent in charge

327
00:32:51,054 --> 00:32:54,099
manages to find something
from the pit of its stomach

328
00:32:54,266 --> 00:32:56,518
to feed the ever-hungry chick.

329
00:33:01,732 --> 00:33:05,068
Until the chicks lose their down
and get their adult plumage,

330
00:33:05,277 --> 00:33:08,739
they can't swim and so can't feed for themselves.

331
00:33:09,323 --> 00:33:14,953
But being so big, they, like the king penguins,
take a long time to grow to full size,

332
00:33:15,120 --> 00:33:21,084
and so their parents must make the long march
to the sea to collect food for them.

333
00:33:23,003 --> 00:33:27,090
Though the winter is almost over,
there is still bad weather.

334
00:33:27,299 --> 00:33:28,842
Blizzards rage over the ice,

335
00:33:29,009 --> 00:33:35,516
and the young huddle together
in groups of their own amongst the parent birds.

336
00:33:40,479 --> 00:33:44,233
Many of the youngsters lack the strength
to withstand the cold.

337
00:33:44,566 --> 00:33:45,734
Many die.

338
00:33:47,236 --> 00:33:53,075
As the sun rises higher each day,
the adults suffer in a different fashion.

339
00:33:53,450 --> 00:33:57,454
On sunny days they get too hot
in their insulating blanket of feathers,

340
00:33:57,663 --> 00:34:00,833
and eat snow in order to cool themselves.

341
00:34:03,252 --> 00:34:06,463
The chicks still have their downy feathers
and can't swim.

342
00:34:06,630 --> 00:34:11,134
But ten months on from laying, the chicks fledge,

343
00:34:11,343 --> 00:34:16,014
and over the next few weeks,
they all walk down to the sea,

344
00:34:16,181 --> 00:34:20,936
which now, with the spring break-up
of the ice, is close at hand.

345
00:34:23,605 --> 00:34:27,526
Now, at last, the adults
can feed entirely for themselves.

346
00:34:28,026 --> 00:34:30,696
They've got two months
in which to restore their weight

347
00:34:30,904 --> 00:34:34,158
before they start
the whole process over again.

348
00:34:39,204 --> 00:34:41,790
These birds, at first sight so penguin-like,

349
00:34:42,040 --> 00:34:45,085
live not near the south pole, but the north.

350
00:34:45,502 --> 00:34:49,590
They're not penguins but guillemots,
members of the auk family.

351
00:34:50,215 --> 00:34:53,969
All auks, like penguins,
are excellent underwater swimmers.

352
00:34:54,219 --> 00:34:56,847
They use their wings like flippers,

353
00:34:57,181 --> 00:35:00,434
but they have not become
such specialised swimmers as the penguins,

354
00:35:00,642 --> 00:35:02,144
for they can still fly.

355
00:35:03,103 --> 00:35:06,523
These are the guillemots' smaller cousins,
the little auk.

356
00:35:25,626 --> 00:35:30,380
Auks and penguins, similar though they are,
are not closely related.

357
00:35:30,547 --> 00:35:34,551
They've come to resemble one another
by adopting a similar lifestyle

358
00:35:34,718 --> 00:35:36,887
at opposite ends of the earth.

359
00:35:40,307 --> 00:35:44,561
Unlike Antarctica,
that isolated continent surrounded by sea,

360
00:35:44,728 --> 00:35:49,900
the Arctic is connected by land
to more temperate regions.

361
00:35:50,234 --> 00:35:55,280
So the land animals of Europe and North
America have been able to colonise it

362
00:35:55,447 --> 00:35:58,700
and adapt to its particular demands.

363
00:36:01,328 --> 00:36:03,372
Foxes have moved up here.

364
00:36:03,705 --> 00:36:09,670
The Arctic fox's coat is lighter
than its southern cousin, and in winter turns whit

365
00:36:10,212 --> 00:36:15,384
On land, it feeds on small rodents,
and on ice floes, perhaps the odd bird.

366
00:36:15,801 --> 00:36:19,304
It's just as well the little auks
have kept their powers of flight.

367
00:36:35,988 --> 00:36:42,536
The ice floes are also the hunting ground
of one of the biggest of all carnivores.

368
00:36:50,502 --> 00:36:52,045
The polar bear.

369
00:36:53,005 --> 00:36:56,300
This one has killed a bearded seal.

370
00:37:09,021 --> 00:37:14,151
A young bear is eager to take a share of the kill,
but must be cautious.

371
00:37:14,401 --> 00:37:17,696
Adults sometimes kill youngsters in squabbles.

372
00:37:52,147 --> 00:37:58,237
The polar bear is clearly a close relative
of the bears that live in Europe and America.

373
00:37:58,779 --> 00:38:04,743
Its whiteness is an obvious adaptation
to the snow and ice, but so is its huge size.

374
00:38:05,202 --> 00:38:12,417
The principle of a big body retaining more heat
applies to bears as much as penguins,

375
00:38:12,709 --> 00:38:18,340
and polar bears are very much bigger than
their cousins in temperate lands farther south.

376
00:38:36,692 --> 00:38:42,656
Polar bears, if forced to, will eat all kinds of t
but their preferred food is flesh,

377
00:38:42,823 --> 00:38:44,700
particularly that of seals.

378
00:38:45,075 --> 00:38:49,121
They especially like the blubber
just below the seal's skin,

379
00:38:49,371 --> 00:38:52,958
and often leave the meat
for the scavenging gulls and foxes.

380
00:39:21,737 --> 00:39:26,658
Among the glaucous gulls is the much rarer
and pure-white ivory gull.

381
00:39:36,627 --> 00:39:42,549
The polar bear's white coat and great size
are not its only adaptations to Arctic life.

382
00:39:42,799 --> 00:39:46,470
It grips the ice with long, sharp claws

383
00:39:46,637 --> 00:39:52,518
and thick hair on the soles,
which also makes them excellent paddles,

384
00:39:52,809 --> 00:39:57,064
for the polar bear spends a lot of time swimming
during the summer.

385
00:40:41,525 --> 00:40:44,027
Ringed seals are much hunted by polar bears,

386
00:40:44,194 --> 00:40:48,824
and when on the ice,
must be constantly on the alert.

387
00:40:53,078 --> 00:40:56,874
They need ice holes
through which to leave the water,

388
00:40:57,040 --> 00:41:00,043
or at least stick up their heads to breathe.

389
00:41:06,091 --> 00:41:11,305
A polar bear will wait for many hours,
motionless, beside such a hole.

390
00:41:16,101 --> 00:41:20,814
They also stalk seals
that are rash enough to lie out on the ice.

391
00:41:37,206 --> 00:41:43,003
The polar bear has lost, but about once
in every five hunting days, it does kill,

392
00:41:43,212 --> 00:41:44,796
and that is enough.

393
00:41:53,180 --> 00:41:59,061
The most powerful effective hunter of all,
however, on the northern ice, is man.

394
00:42:03,023 --> 00:42:06,318
Eskimo, or Inuit,
as they prefer to call themselves,

395
00:42:06,485 --> 00:42:09,655
came up to the Arctic in very early times.

396
00:42:09,988 --> 00:42:13,742
Superb hunters,
they could live for many months in winter

397
00:42:13,951 --> 00:42:16,829
on nothing whatever but raw meat.

398
00:42:30,133 --> 00:42:35,806
They were so skilled at living on the ice
that with only a knife of bone

399
00:42:35,973 --> 00:42:40,143
they could make a waterproof house
from snow in an hour or so.

400
00:42:53,615 --> 00:42:56,285
A slab of sea ice made a window.

401
00:43:17,431 --> 00:43:21,560
Inside, the igloo was lit
with lamps fed by seal blubber.

402
00:43:21,852 --> 00:43:23,854
Heat from the flame and from their bodies

403
00:43:24,021 --> 00:43:29,651
could raise the temperature enough for them
to remove their heavy clothing and relax.

404
00:43:44,416 --> 00:43:48,212
It was a life of extraordinary rigour and privation.

405
00:43:48,629 --> 00:43:51,340
These pictures were taken 20 years ago.

406
00:43:51,632 --> 00:43:54,468
No Eskimo lives in this way today.

407
00:43:56,470 --> 00:43:58,764
The poles have not always been so cold.

408
00:43:59,056 --> 00:44:03,894
One explanation of why they've become so
is the warming effect of ocean currents.

409
00:44:04,186 --> 00:44:08,315
If they can circulate the waters of the polar seas
down towards the equator,

410
00:44:08,482 --> 00:44:10,651
they would keep them relatively warm.

411
00:44:10,901 --> 00:44:16,532
And maybe they did so 100 million years ago,
when the continents were arranged like this.

412
00:44:17,282 --> 00:44:21,620
But the continents have shifted,
the polar seas become more enclosed

413
00:44:21,829 --> 00:44:24,373
and any such currents interrupted.

414
00:44:27,042 --> 00:44:29,753
Meanwhile, during the same period,

415
00:44:29,920 --> 00:44:35,133
the Antarctic continent drifted south
until it came to rest over the south pole.

416
00:44:35,425 --> 00:44:40,430
Now ocean currents
could not keep that part of the world warm either,

417
00:44:40,639 --> 00:44:42,599
and so an ice cap formed.

418
00:44:43,350 --> 00:44:49,147
The whiteness reflected 90% of the heat
in the already feeble rays of the sun.

419
00:44:49,398 --> 00:44:54,111
So ice now covers all of Antarctica
and the seas of the north pole.

420
00:44:54,653 --> 00:44:57,990
Over the past million years
there have been other variations,

421
00:44:58,157 --> 00:45:01,076
due to the sun's varying strength,

422
00:45:01,243 --> 00:45:03,912
and the ice cover has waxed and waned.

423
00:45:04,288 --> 00:45:07,833
Now we're in one of the warmer phases,

424
00:45:08,000 --> 00:45:11,962
but even so, Antarctica is still buried
beneath ice a mile thick,

425
00:45:12,129 --> 00:45:18,844
and in the north, ice and snow
extend for 1,000 miles away from the pole.

426
00:45:41,575 --> 00:45:45,204
As you come down the mountain
or away from the pole,

427
00:45:45,370 --> 00:45:51,168
the land becomes warm enough to prevent it
being covered by ice and snow all year.

428
00:45:51,460 --> 00:45:55,839
Beyond, the country is bleak enough:
Boulders and gravel,

429
00:45:56,048 --> 00:46:01,261
rocks that have been ground to fragments
by the glaciers and pushed in front of them.

430
00:46:02,513 --> 00:46:07,893
This is the tundra,
a land full of strange shapes and patterns.

431
00:46:08,393 --> 00:46:12,314
Fine muds and sands
retain more moisture than coarse gravel,

432
00:46:12,481 --> 00:46:15,359
so when they freeze, they expand more

433
00:46:15,526 --> 00:46:20,739
and push the gravel outwards
to produce these geometric shapes.

434
00:46:21,156 --> 00:46:24,785
A foot down, the soil is still frozen, permafrost,

435
00:46:24,993 --> 00:46:27,913
so the summer melt water can't soak away

436
00:46:28,080 --> 00:46:33,669
and the land is covered with bogs and ponds
that lie within the polygonal ridges,

437
00:46:33,836 --> 00:46:37,965
so that the land looks almost
as though it's been cultivated by man.

438
00:46:41,844 --> 00:46:46,807
In places, the underground ice
pushes upwards into a mountain called a pingo.

439
00:46:47,766 --> 00:46:52,396
It looks like a small volcano,
but instead of hot lava in its heart,

440
00:46:52,563 --> 00:46:55,107
it has cold, blue ice.

441
00:47:07,035 --> 00:47:11,915
Although the ice relaxes its grip
for only a few weeks in summer,

442
00:47:12,124 --> 00:47:17,254
a surprising number of plants and animals
manage to find a permanent home here.

443
00:47:21,758 --> 00:47:24,303
Small flowering plants keep low,

444
00:47:24,469 --> 00:47:30,017
for close to the ground there is little wind
and the sun's rays can be quite warm.

445
00:47:37,941 --> 00:47:42,070
One kind of tree manages to live up here
in large numbers

446
00:47:42,237 --> 00:47:45,032
by adopting exactly the same policy.

447
00:47:46,325 --> 00:47:49,161
This is the Arctic willow and it lies flat.

448
00:47:49,369 --> 00:47:52,164
It grows extremely slowly
in these cold temperatures,

449
00:47:52,331 --> 00:47:57,878
and this one may be a century or so old.

450
00:47:59,087 --> 00:48:01,340
In shallow burrows in the topsoil

451
00:48:01,507 --> 00:48:06,803
live the harvesters of this meagre crop
of leaves and grass: Lemmings.

452
00:48:10,516 --> 00:48:14,561
In summer, when there's food about,
they breed with great speed.

453
00:48:14,770 --> 00:48:21,235
One female produces five or six babies
in a litter, four or five times in a single season

454
00:48:21,527 --> 00:48:25,030
So in a few months she may produce 30 young.

455
00:48:25,322 --> 00:48:29,868
The babies grow so quickly
that the first to be born in the spring

456
00:48:30,077 --> 00:48:33,330
can themselves produce young
before the winter returns.

457
00:48:40,337 --> 00:48:44,258
In summer, all the tundra plants
put out their leaves

458
00:48:44,424 --> 00:48:45,968
and there's lots to eat.

459
00:48:53,892 --> 00:48:57,187
The swarming hordes of lemmings attract hunters:

460
00:48:59,898 --> 00:49:01,400
Snowy owls.

461
00:49:14,955 --> 00:49:18,458
During the summer,
lemmings are the owl's main food.

462
00:49:38,478 --> 00:49:43,567
Abundant though the lemmings are,
the hunting has been poor for this owl.

463
00:49:43,775 --> 00:49:48,739
She may have laid as many as eight eggs,
but only one chick has survived.

464
00:50:05,005 --> 00:50:09,301
As the days lengthen,
herds of caribou migrate up from the south.

465
00:50:09,968 --> 00:50:15,807
Their calves were born early in the season
and the herd moves up to 15 miles a day

466
00:50:16,183 --> 00:50:21,146
They have to keep traveling in order
to find enough food to sustain them all.

467
00:50:51,385 --> 00:50:53,720
They follow the same route each year.

468
00:50:53,887 --> 00:50:56,849
In places, paths are worn 18 inches deep

469
00:50:57,015 --> 00:51:00,644
where the animals have passed,
century after century.

470
00:51:06,984 --> 00:51:08,944
Snow geese fly up, too.

471
00:51:09,236 --> 00:51:13,448
They've come from as far away as Mexico,
3,000 miles distant,

472
00:51:13,615 --> 00:51:18,203
to claim a share in summer's brief crop
and to breed.

473
00:51:27,671 --> 00:51:29,631
They exist in two forms:

474
00:51:29,798 --> 00:51:34,052
Ones with dark feathers on the body,
as well as pure-white ones.

475
00:51:34,469 --> 00:51:38,140
But they're all the same species,
and mixed couples are common.

476
00:51:42,394 --> 00:51:45,647
Soon the tundra is thick with their nests.

477
00:51:48,734 --> 00:51:53,155
Ptarmigan, now in their dark summer plumage,
feed on the willow scrub.

478
00:52:00,787 --> 00:52:04,541
The caribou take not only willow,
but grasses and lichen.

479
00:52:17,346 --> 00:52:21,725
The first snow geese to arrive
already have goslings,

480
00:52:21,975 --> 00:52:23,769
and are foraging as a family.

481
00:52:32,903 --> 00:52:35,072
Later arrivals are still on the nest,

482
00:52:35,280 --> 00:52:38,909
and can't leave until the last egg has hatched.

483
00:52:39,451 --> 00:52:42,579
While there, the first goslings to emerge
and their parents

484
00:52:42,788 --> 00:52:47,751
are plagued by hordes of voracious
blood-hungry mosquitoes.

485
00:53:03,183 --> 00:53:07,187
From the warming pools,
more and more mosquitoes hatch.

486
00:53:13,986 --> 00:53:18,615
They provide food for the red-necked phalarope,
and there are plenty to gather.

487
00:53:18,824 --> 00:53:24,288
A square yard of fresh water here
can produce 100,000 insects in a season.

488
00:53:25,414 --> 00:53:27,082
Now the blackfly larvae,

489
00:53:27,249 --> 00:53:30,919
which as eggs were attached to stones
in the shallow pools,

490
00:53:31,170 --> 00:53:33,505
are also beginning to emerge.

491
00:53:55,819 --> 00:54:02,659
Activity now is intense, for it is light
for almost the whole 24 hours of the day.

492
00:54:05,412 --> 00:54:09,416
But by late August,
the snow geese sense the imminence of winter

493
00:54:09,583 --> 00:54:11,835
and start to head southwards again.

494
00:54:22,179 --> 00:54:24,806
The caribou, too, end their grazing,

495
00:54:24,973 --> 00:54:28,101
and start to plod back across the tundra.

496
00:54:28,769 --> 00:54:30,687
As they go, they continue to feed,

497
00:54:30,854 --> 00:54:35,651
building up the reserves of fat they will need
to sustain themselves through the winter.

498
00:54:56,421 --> 00:55:01,468
As the weather gets colder and colder,
the need for shelter becomes more urgent

499
00:55:01,802 --> 00:55:04,763
and the herds may cover 25 miles in a day.

500
00:55:26,535 --> 00:55:32,166
And then, at last,
the returning travellers reach the first tall tree

501
00:55:32,583 --> 00:55:35,043
It's the start of the great coniferous forest

502
00:55:35,210 --> 00:55:38,922
that lies south of the tundra
right round the globe.

503
00:55:39,673 --> 00:55:43,010
The snow geese will fly on for thousands of miles,

504
00:55:43,177 --> 00:55:46,722
but the caribou have reached
their wintering grounds.

505
00:55:47,222 --> 00:55:49,308
The forest is a sanctuary

506
00:55:49,474 --> 00:55:52,936
which will protect them from the bitter winter cold.

